![]() If it still comes on randomly then its likely the sensor that is bad and it needs to be replaced. Apply the dielectric grease to the contacts and plug it back in. you can get it for a couple of bucks at any autoparts store. If its not, clean it up with a small file and apply some dielectric grease. You can unplug the connector, visually inspect it and make sure its clean copper on the contacts. If it is, then it may still be a contact issue. Find the wire that connects to it and make sure the plug is well inserted and connected. ![]() If the fluid level does not drop but the light comes on then its the sensor. That is probably the water pump on its way to failing. If it drops below the center line of the tank after you fill it to that level then you have a leak. The coolant light can come on if the coolant is low, like if the water pump is intermittently leaking in anticipation of a total failure, or it can come on if the sensor is failing, or if the connector is failing. What do you think the issue may be? It doesn't seem to be leaking any coolant and it could be the air bubble issue but my engine is not getting very hot and I had never opened the cap before it came on the first time. The coolant light comes on around 197-205 and the longest it's stayed on is a few minutes. I see it get up to 210 max if its been running for awhile. The engine does not seem to be running much hotter, it used to never get above 199 but that was in the spring. I topped it off again and it didn't accomplish anything. That didn't solve anything and it has been coming on more and more frequently and for longer even though the coolant is at a completely fine level. Perform on a cold car, you will loose only a slight bit of coolant due to cooling system vacuum. A few days later it happened again, and then driving back from lunch it came on for an extended period of time so I put some coolant in there even though it wasn't very low (I didn't check, I just put some in as I have never filled coolant before). O-ring is no listed in the parts catalog, it is BMW Part 13621743299, about 2 and it does not require any tools to do the job, just your fingers to unlatch the connector and release the fan switch with the 2 plastic tabs. It also leaves a white-ish residue in places where it is leaking.Hello, a few weeks ago I stopped at a stoplight and the coolant light came on, as soon as I pulled away it turned off. The leaks normally manifest themselves once everything is up to operating temperature. I'd might not be a bad idea next time you take the car on a decent run, just keep it running, pop the bonnet open and have a good look in the engine bay and underneath to see whether there are any drips. A coolant leak might not always be immediately obvious from patches underneath. Glad you got it sorted, as said just keep an eye on it. I'm hoping it's either 1 or 2 for obvious reasons and I think I'm okay because I've never seen any patches of fluid under the car where I park it on my drive. They did fill it but air in the system, which has since came out, accounts for the low level. In some cases, it can also be a stuck thermostat causing the engine not to heat up properly. It can also be caused by bad wiring between the cluster and the sensor. The most common reason why your car’s temperature gauge stays on cold is a faulty coolant temperature sensor. They didn't fill it properly when they replaced it recently.Ģ. 7 Reasons Why Your Car Temperature Gauge Stays on Cold. The guy at the Toyota parts stall said that the low inverter coolant level could have been down to one of 3 things:ġ. It sounded quite ragged for a few days there. It's also a bit quieter when you first start up and the engine kicks in while stationary. I ended up going to my local dealer to pick up some TLLC.
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